Allen Antiques

Waistcoat Cuirass. - GeoffreyWaistCoatClothesAndBreastClose Waistcoat Cuirass. - GeoffreyWaistCoatAngleFront-a Waistcoat Cuirass. - GeoffreyWaistCoatSide-a Waistcoat Cuirass. - GeoffreyWaistCoatBack-a Waistcoat Cuirass. - GeoffreyWaistCoatOpen-a Waistcoat Cuirass. - GeoffreyWaistCoatClothesAndBreast Waistcoat Cuirass. - GeoffreyWaistCoatClothesAndBreastBackAngle Waistcoat Cuirass. - GeoffreyWaistCoatClothesAndBreastFrontAngle Waistcoat Cuirass. - GeoffreyWaistCoatClothes Waistcoat Cuirass. - GeoffreyWaistCoatClothesBack Waistcoat Cuirass. - GeoffreyWaistCoatPatterns

Waistcoat Cuirass. 1570

Italian. Formed to mimic the peascod style of civilian clothing popular at the time with a waist that droops at the center of the waist. Arms and neck bordered by inward-turned roped rolls. Waist flaired and cut to form picadills. Formed of five main pieces. The main front and back plates solidly at the side and shoulder. These units are then secured to the central back plate by two hinges and an alignment pin on each side. The front is decorated with a line of pointed buttons and secured by a hook through a hole in a peg at the base, a turning hook in the center and a pin in the gorget plates. The neck is extended to form an integral gorget. The gorget, like the cuirass, is formed of 3 separate pieces. One that extends the central back plate, the others that cover the sides and join at the front. The Italianate details include the form of the peascod (more rounded) the overlap at the center (many German ones just overlap to the center), the buttons down the center, and the relatively straight form of the gorget plates. All of the turns have wire inside.

The waistcoat cuirass was based on several surviving Italian waistcoat cuirasses. These included examples in the Wallace collection, Chicago Art Institute, etc. Primary design was taken from one that survives in the Odescalchi collection in Rome in the Museo di Palazzo Venezia #1251. It is illustrated in figures 167 and 168 in Armi e Armature Lombarde. Since this was made we have added item number A-240, an example of a similar type of cuirass.

Tracy was allowed to design the clothing to suit Italian styles of the appropriate period. The outfit was inspired by a 1560 portrait by Giovanni Moroni, "The Man in Pink". It is made of silk and linen. Additional sources include a couple of outfits described by Janet Arnold in Patterns of Fashion 3 to pattern it: the 1562 grave clothes of Don Garzia de Medici and the 1618 suit of Sir Richard Cotton. There are a couple of deviations from period practice for the comfort of the wearer - the doublet and breeches do not lace together and there's a zipper behind the codpiece. The overall look is good. Geoffrey is tall and slim so he has the right physique to pull off this kind of thing. Embroidered silk-covered bead buttons.

Formed from 14g for the breast plates, 16g for the back plates and 20g for the neck plates. Full-wrap hinges formed of 20g. All of 1050.

Armour by Wade Allen, clothing by Tracy Justus. Produced for Geoffrey Allen when he was 12.


If you have any questions, please send them to Wade Allen

This site last updated Wed Apr 13 19:23:17 EDT 2022