Changes in the shapes of breastplates in the 16th century Main Page Previous Page Next Page
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The First Book of Fashion Page 99 Manuscript page 48 Recto |
Maximilian Breastplate circa 1505-15 inv. num. A-170 |
Breastplate circa 1510-20 inv. num. A-216 |
At the same time the plain, rounded form was in use, more decorative styles were also used. These add one of several different styles of flutes radiating from the center of the waist up and out over the chest. These flutes can mimic pleats, slashes or other styles of decoration that was common at the time.
On the left we see a typical example of and early German breastplate of this style and on the right an Italian interpretation of the same style. The one of the left really accentuates the waist, showing that it was made for someone specific, allowing the wearer to look really good. The one on the right isn't as elegantly shaped, indicating that it was probably made for use by a someone of lower class, someone for whom armor was issued, not custom ordered.
Both show the same lower neck line and somewhat rounder form as the previous breastplate. Both also include gussets at the arms. The one on the left shows us thow they are done when they are done right - with full rolls, the one on the right uses a simplified flare with the edge folded back. This seems to have been common on lower end pieces. The look is the same, the function similar, but construction is easier.